Isla Chiloe’, Puerto Montt, Puerto Varas, Frutillar

Posted: April 13, 2012 in South America
Tags: , , , , ,

Isla Chiloe’..magical little island..well not that little but I am comparing now everything to the size of Brazil/Argentina.

1st stop: Ancud. Surprisingly there was free wifi on the 15 minutes ferry journey that we did to arrive to the island. This is the size  ferry:

The weather was not great..rain, we found a hostel with Benny went to eat fabulous seafood on the fish market and early night. The first surprise with Benny was during the night….I was up late doing some admin (after 4 days of no access to wifi on Navimag kinda made me keen on catching up with the world), when Benny after 5 mins of going to bed started snoring in a way that the Aussie guy coming in to the dorm to sleep could only say: This is selvage!

Apparently people heard him downstairs…so..I hoped i would get some sleep which I did but I kept waking up to the incredibly loud snoring melodie…The Aussie guy had enough at some point and climbed up to Benny’s bed to hit him 🙂 Now if I think back to this action, I am still pissing myself of laughing.

Next day Benny had pokerface..maybe I should have told him something but I didn’t..So we are at Easter Saturday now…everything was closed. The main reason I wanted to check Ancud out was the penguin community living very close to it along with sea lions, but 2 problems occurred..

  1. I just missed them by a week
  2. National holiday …life completely stops

So in the afternoon I grabbed Benny to go to Castro (Capital of Isla Chiloe;) I used the word ‘grabbed’ deliberately as the poor guy had no clue( and interest) in where we are going, what we are doing, he just tagged along because ‘I speak Spanish and he doesn’t so it’s good for him’ I kinda quoted him here…At the beginning I kinda enjoyed his company..learnt a few things about him, such as him working as a rescue man (not sure if it’s ambulance or fireman but one of the 2..I needed a lot of patience to his English), him having a family back home but he decided to go travelling at the age of 50+ before pension, that he eats rice with every meal and many other things. But then he started to annoy me big time..simply with his uselessness..and his inability to choose between 2 suggestions of mine that was coming from his lack of interest I think…or I don’t know.

Anyway..after arriving to Castro i made our way to Palafito area which is little houses built on poles

There was a hostel which was recommended by Lonely Planet but sadly it was full. Luckily I popped into the Tourist info before where they gave me a kinda ‘underground’ cheap hostel (not advertised as a hostel- called Hostel Mirador, Palafito), which was managed by a 14-15 year old little guy who kindly showed us the room. It was a private room with 2 single beds…As soon as I saw it I remembered last night and the snoring so the first thing coming out of my backpack were the earplugs..I think these were the last ones so whoever laughed at me at the beginning on taking 40 pairs of earplugs on my trip and making me uncertain on my decision (followed by reducing quantity) can admit here that it wasn’t a bad idea in the end considering taking large amount of this helpful tool! The person knows exactly that he made a mistake therefore I am expecting a comment to this post from him/her.

I planned to stay in the hostel 2 nights, so the afternoon when we arrived we visited Castro..very nice little town with all the Palafitos, restaurants and hidden gems like this for example:

Next day early rise: Plan was to go to Isla de Quinchao. Since our hostel didn’t offer breakie and the whole city was closed at 9.30 am we went to a hostel where some Navimag folks stayed (oh we kept bumping into people from the boat, it was funny) and i begged for some breakfast to us obviously with payment..aaaaand who was having breakfast there?? My favourite couple on the boat from Barcelona: Xavi and Mariona!!

I briefed the story to them on Benny. They were about to go on my second day plan to the National park, so I asked them if we can come with them.

So we spent the day together in the green, then finished the walk with a nice meal in Parador Darwin restaurant. In the evening I sat in a cafe, did some admin and decided to send off Benny that night..(giving him a day notice). He didn’t seem to bother  too much..

In the morning we went to the little island and to Achao (capital). I lost Benny pretty early, and couldn’t find him anymore in that little island (ok.. ok i was mean and didn’t put a 100% into his research)

I went to a few places on the island, then returned to Castro, got a sim card (along with a phone- paid about £18 which was a full credit) then took the bus back to Puerto Montt, as there were 2 more little towns I wanted to visit. I decided that I will try to couchsurf.(whoever is not familiar with the term can look it up here:

I had one guest back in the time in London but I never stayed at anyone’s house. Luckily Ricardo replied to my request but said that we wasn’t going to be at home as he is working during the night, and his parents are away too, so he said he would leave the keys under the doormat…PEOPLE, I DON’T KNOW WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THIS BUT I FIND IT QUITE INCREDIBLE!

Let’s see the risk factors for me:

-keys are not going to be under the doormat and i would need to look for accommodation in the middle of the night

For him:

–          Considering that i had no feedback on my couchsurfing profile and even thought he heard my charming voice over the phone I could have been a psycho murderer, thief, robber…i could have put his house on fire or do whatever the f…ck I wanted!

He took the risk and left the keys for me under the doormat….Thank you so much again Ricky, if you are reading it.

So I spent 2 night at his house. It was so nice to have a lie in and not to worry about check out before 11am, living in a family house with a cute dog, having amazing meal that Jeanette cooked (she works in the house every day) Please meet Ric, Pitufo and Jeanette:

I visited the 2 little towns I wanted: Puerto Varas

And Futillar:

You can see the German influence here.

The next post is going to be Pucon, Santiago and Valparaiso.


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